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Post by atvsunlspokane on Mar 16, 2014 17:32:11 GMT -5
 Changing the rear bearings and seals was alot easyer then I expected. Actually very easy,and anyone with a few wrenches could do it in about 2 hours.1st of course is put chocks or wood in from of front tires so rig won't roll forward. Then loosen but do not remove lug nuts on the tires. Now place rear end of ATV on a jackstand or crate or something. Remove the tires and place to the side. Screw washers and lugnuts back onto hub, so they won't get lost. Now as you are looking at the rear end,remove the crown bolt,washer and hub from the right hand side of the bike. That would be the brake side not the chain side. Then un bolt the brake caliper and gently set up under the bike out of the way( Do not remove the brake line). Now remove the two large bolts that are on the axle up aganst the brake rotor and slide the brake caliper off and set aside. Now your axle is ready to be slide out. Now take the master link on your chain apart with a simple pair of plyers( be sure after the chain is off the sproket to put the link back on so you don't loose it)! Now place the axle crown nut back on the end of the axle so you can give it a nice tap with a cheap malet and wiggle the axle and out it comes.( Clean axle and sprocket and any threads and groves of grease). Now to get the bearings and seals out,no high tech tools will work here,I tryed! Since you will be getting new seals,simply pry them out with a screw driver( A little tug and out they come).Save your old seals!!! Now you will see the bearings on bothsides. Now a bearing puller won't work because of the inner sleeve that seperates the bearings that the axle slides through won't allow it. Simply get a 1/2" x 12" steel bolt for a hardware store,this is now your bearing removal tool. The sleeve insde the housing will slide a little to each side. Put the threaded end of the bolt in through one end and place it on the inner steel race on the bearing,and following in a circle around the race hit it with a cheap 2 to 3lb short sledge hammer. Just a few moderate taps and out the bearings will come,repeat for the other side. Pull out the sleeve and clean and set it aside. Now clean the inside of the axle housing really well,all the little edges ect. Now take your bearings and seals as samples down to your local industrial bearing supply house if you have one near by. They will only charge you a 1/4 of the price a bike shop or auto parts place will. Now take your new bearings and place them in the freezer over night to get them to shrink from the cold( nice but not nessesary). Now you need to make a homemade bearing,inner sleeve alignment tool. In this case I will find a short piece of pipe and wrap masking tape around it so it will fit just slightly loose into the long sleeve.(set it aside).Now when you tap the bearings into place be sure not to use anything steel to tap them with,it will bugger up the bearings.You can get a piece of large round alumunim pipe and use that or get or rent a bearing/seal install kit. Now take the froozen bearing, grease it up and set it in place and start taping it in. After it is in all the way to its little ridge,pack the inside of the axle housing full of fresh grease. Take your homemade alignment tool and slide it threw the seated bearing and through the wad of grease and now slide the long sleeve into place.Repack and grease that was lost. Now place the other bearing into place with the alignment tool linning up both bearings with the sleeve. Install second greased up bearing.Wipe away excess greese!! Now to install the seals!! Take a wad of greese and place it over the bearing, add grease to seal, now tap seal with rubber malet or install kit into place, do the same for the otherside.Wipe away excess grease. pull out alignment tool and set aside,your done with it. Now make sure the inside of the inner sleeve is semi greased just a little. Now we need to slide the axle back into place. Being very carefull slide axle thru the seals and bearings being carefull to keep it level and not buggering up the seals and bearings Now just before you get it all the way through add some grease so as it seats into place there is a liberal amount of grease in the inner sleeve area of the axle housing. Now you are ready to put the brake rotor back on, and place the twolocking bolts into place. Make sure the threads are clean and add some botl blue lock tite and don't over tighten them up anganst the bearings. Now time to install the wheel hub, be sure to clean the ribs out good and add a liberal amount of lock tite and tap hub into place. Install crown bolt with lock tite and install a new steal cotter pin. Now reinstall the brake caliper( good time to check or replace pads)! Be sure to add lock tite to bolt threads there also and don't over tighten for the housings are aluminum and will crack. Be sure to pump the brakes to seat pads back into place. Now this is a good time to clean or replace the chain also! Install chain and adjust to where you only have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play which is not that much play. Google chain adjustment!
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Post by atvsunlspokane on Mar 18, 2014 22:25:44 GMT -5
Well I finished up the bearing and seal replacement and it went without a hitch. Best tip is to put as much Marine grease as you can inside the axle housing when installing the bearings and seals. Also fill the inner sleeve with as much grease as you can, the most it can do is fill pockets or come out. Don't forget to lock tite all nuts and bolts into place. I would like to say I probably did a better job then any shop would have done. Now to do my other Sunl STA-200 200cc sport ATV. Next year I will only have to replace the seals now as regular maint.. Good luck out there!
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Post by atvsunlspokane on Mar 19, 2014 18:36:10 GMT -5
Test drove the ATV today. Nice and smooth,shifted really well and fast and had no vibrations at all. Bike goes 50 mph no problem now.
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Changing the rear bearings and seals was alot easyer then I expected. Actually very easy,and anyone with a few wrenches could do it in about 2 hours.1st of course is put chocks or wood in from of front tires so rig won't roll forward. Then loosen but do not remove lug nuts on the tires. Now place rear end of ATV on a jackstand or crate or something. Remove the tires and place to the side. Screw washers and lugnuts back onto hub, so they won't get lost. Now as you are looking at the rear end,remove the crown bolt,washer and hub from the right hand side of the bike. That would be the brake side not the chain side. Then un bolt the brake caliper and gently set up under the bike out of the way( Do not remove the brake line). Now remove the two large bolts that are on the axle up aganst the brake rotor and slide the brake caliper off and set aside. Now your axle is ready to be slide out. Now take the master link on your chain apart with a simple pair of plyers( be sure after the chain is off the sproket to put the link back on so you don't loose it)! Now place the axle crown nut back on the end of the axle so you can give it a nice tap with a cheap malet and wiggle the axle and out it comes.( Clean axle and sprocket and any threads and groves of grease). Now to get the bearings and seals out,no high tech tools will work here,I tryed! Since you will be getting new seals,simply pry them out with a screw driver( A little tug and out they come).Save your old seals!!! Now you will see the bearings on bothsides. Now a bearing puller won't work because of the inner sleeve that seperates the bearings that the axle slides through won't allow it. Simply get a 1/2" x 12" steel bolt for a hardware store,this is now your bearing removal tool. The sleeve insde the housing will slide a little to each side. Put the threaded end of the bolt in through one end and place it on the inner steel race on the bearing,and following in a circle around the race hit it with a cheap 2 to 3lb short sledge hammer. Just a few moderate taps and out the bearings will come,repeat for the other side. Pull out the sleeve and clean and set it aside. Now clean the inside of the axle housing really well,all the little edges ect. Now take your bearings and seals as samples down to your local industrial bearing supply house if you have one near by. They will only charge you a 1/4 of the price a bike shop or auto parts place will. Now take your new bearings and place them in the freezer over night to get them to shrink from the cold( nice but not nessesary). Now you need to make a homemade bearing,inner sleeve alignment tool. In this case I will find a short piece of pipe and wrap masking tape around it so it will fit just slightly loose into the long sleeve.(set it aside).Now when you tap the bearings into place be sure not to use anything steel to tap them with,it will bugger up the bearings.You can get a piece of large round alumunim pipe and use that or get or rent a bearing/seal install kit. Now take the froozen bearing, grease it up and set it in place and start taping it in. After it is in all the way to its little ridge,pack the inside of the axle housing full of fresh grease. Take your homemade alignment tool and slide it threw the seated bearing and through the wad of grease and now slide the long sleeve into place.Repack and grease that was lost. Now place the other bearing into place with the alignment tool linning up both bearings with the sleeve. Install second greased up bearing.Wipe away excess greese!! Now to install the seals!! Take a wad of greese and place it over the bearing, add grease to seal, now tap seal with rubber malet or install kit into place, do the same for the otherside.Wipe away excess grease. pull out alignment tool and set aside,your done with it. Now make sure the inside of the inner sleeve is semi greased just a little. Now we need to slide the axle back into place. Being very carefull slide axle thru the seals and bearings being carefull to keep it level and not buggering up the seals and bearings Now just before you get it all the way through add some grease so as it seats into place there is a liberal amount of grease in the inner sleeve area of the axle housing. Now you are ready to put the brake rotor back on, and place the twolocking bolts into place. Make sure the threads are clean and add some botl blue lock tite and don't over tighten them up anganst the bearings. Now time to install the wheel hub, be sure to clean the ribs out good and add a liberal amount of lock tite and tap hub into place. Install crown bolt with lock tite and install a new steal cotter pin. Now reinstall the brake caliper( good time to check or replace pads)! Be sure to add lock tite to bolt threads there also and don't over tighten for the housings are aluminum and will crack. Be sure to pump the brakes to seat pads back into place. Now this is a good time to clean or replace the chain also! Install chain and adjust to where you only have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play which is not that much play. Google chain adjustment!